Product Measurements:
Lushdolls are made to order and currently take 6-12 weeks to produce. Expect your order to delivery to be 6-12 weeks.
Legs, Hips, Knees, & Ankles.
Our doll’s legs are designed for realistic positioning and offer flexibility similar to that of a very agile human. The hips allow full movement in multiple directions—left, right, up, down, and diagonally in all directions—just like a real hip joint.
- Knees: Our dolls feature “double-jointed” knees, allowing for a full range of motion, including side-to-side movement like human knees. However, knees do not bend forwards (hyperextension), as this is unnatural and would make standing very difficult. The knees are designed to stop bending when the legs are straight.
- Hips: When adjusting the hips, it’s best to keep the knees straight. This way, you can use the whole leg as leverage. Once the hips are positioned, you can bend the knees and arrange them as desired. From experience, this method works best.
- Ankles: The ankles rotate side to side, up and down, just like you would expect.
Hands
The articulated fingers offer individual movement on every finger, mimicking lifelike hand movements. Each finger has a knuckle joint and two additional joints along the finger bone, much like real human fingers.
You can spread the fingers wide, squish them together, or pose them to hold objects. However, note that, like the knees, the fingers do not bend backwards (hyperextend) to prevent unnatural positioning and to avoid damaging the joints.
The wrists can pivot and rotate, providing lifelike hand positioning. You can turn the wrists inwards, outwards, up and down, or even rotate them in a full circle, allowing your doll to hold objects or assume any pose you wish.
Spine
The doll’s spine has articulated joints designed to mimic natural human movement and allows for arching backwards. The spine is typically one of the stiffest joints on our dolls because it needs to support the torso in an upright position. If the spine joint were too loose, the doll might fold over or slump.
Twisting the Back: The back can also twist, allowing you to pose the doll in more dynamic ways.
Hold the doll’s shoulders and gently rotate the torso from side to side. Avoid over-twisting the spine too far and try to keep the movements natural, just like you would with a human body.
Arching the Back: To safely arch the back, seat your doll and stand to the side so you can see the doll’s profile. Place one hand on the lower back (just above the hips) and the other hand on the upper torso (near the breastbone). Gently push in opposite directions. The stiffness of the back joint might make it feel a bit tough at first, but this is by design to ensure the doll maintains a strong upright posture.
Head
Fitting and moving the doll’s head is simple and straightforward. To attach the head securely:
- Insert the head connector into the base of the head.
- Gently position the head and try to align the head connector with the hole in the neck.
- Once aligned, you can allow the weight of the doll’s head to drop into position. The head should drop about 1 cm into the neck. If it does not support itself, then you have not aligned it properly.
- Once aligned and self-supporting, place some firm pressure on the top of the head. You may need to give it a bit of a thump to ensure the head fits into place properly. It should drop into place another 1 cm or so.
- If your head is connected properly, it should not come off easily. It requires some force to remove, which is deliberate and ensures the head does not come off during “playtime.”
For dolls with a realistic oral structure (ROS) feature, the mouth has a jaw that pivots, and the mouth can open. This feature is only available on silicone heads.
To open or close the mouth, gently apply hold the jaw and open the mouth. The mouth can open slightly for natural expressions or oral penetration.
Avoid forcing the mouth open beyond its intended range to protect the internal structure.
If you are having trouble connecting the head, the hex bolts on the head adapter can be adjusted using an Allen key, making the head tighter or looser. By default, the adapter should be perfect and should not need adjusting.
Check that the head is stable and aligned with the body for a natural appearance.
Once fitted, the head can rotate 360 degrees, although we don’t recommend doing this unless you’re recreating a scene from The Exorcist. The neck can bend and pivot in all directions, up and down, side to side, etc., any way you like, giving you full flexibility for posing and positioning.
Eyes
Removing the Eyes: You may want to remove the eyes to clean them, or perhaps you simply fancy a change of colour… This process is delicate and needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the doll. Applying too much force could split the material or damage the doll’s head.
- The head should either be attached to a head stand or remain attached to the doll—trust us, this makes it much easier! With one hand, gently spread the eye socket open using your thumb and index finger. Be careful not to damage the makeup or eyelashes.
- With your other hand, using your thumb and index finger, you should be able to gently grip the whole eyeball and remove it from the socket. The eyes should pop out easily.
- To re-fit the eyes, repeat the same process: spread the eye socket open and pop the eyeball back in. Keep in mind that the eyelashes might fall off during this step, but you can reattach them by following the steps in our Maintenance and Repair Guide.
Adjusting the Eyes: The eyes can move in all directions. Our dolls come with “easy-move eyes”, which are spring-loaded, making adjustments smooth and simple compared to traditional sex doll eyes.
- Tip: If you’re having difficulty moving the eyes with your fingertips, try using the rubber end of a pencil for better control.
- Press lightly on the eye using the rubber end of a pencil (or your fingers). It should rotate freely within the socket. Only the eye should move, not the eyeball housing itself.
Adjust the position for lifelike gazes—whether you want your doll looking straight ahead or slightly off to the side.
Tip : Getting the eyes perfectly aligned can be tricky, especially if you’re new to it. A good approach is to first focus on positioning the white of the eyes evenly. Here’s how:
- If one eye shows about 5mm of white at the bottom, make sure both eyes show the same amount of white.
- If the outer edge of the iris (the colored part) touches the upper eyelid on one eye, adjust the other eye to match, so both irises touch the upper eyelid.
This will ensure your doll’s eyes look symmetrical. Once you’ve got the iris and white of the eye aligned, you can make small, fine adjustments to achieve the perfect gaze.
Wig
Start by placing the wig at the forehead and ensuring the parting is in the correct place. This could be in the centre, or perhaps you want your doll to have a side parting—the choice is yours so have fun with it, but it’s important to get this right first before fitting the rest of the wig.
Next, you want to make sure the forehead is the correct size:
- Proportion to face : The forehead should occupy about one-third of the total facial height.
- Golden Ratio : This “one-third” proportion aligns with the concept of the Golden Ratio, which is considered aesthetically pleasing in many aspects of design.
- Measurement considerations : While the exact measurement can vary depending on individual facial features, a forehead height of around 5-6.5 cm is often considered proportionate.
Once the forehead size looks good and the parting is aligned correctly, you can focus on the rest of the wig by adjusting it around the scalp and making sure it fits snugly around the head. You can use the adjustable straps at the back if you want to make sure your wig is super secure and won’t fall off.
Arms & Shoulders
The arms and shoulders of your love doll are designed to move as naturally as a human’s. All joints along the arms—including the elbows, wrists, and shoulders—can twist, bend, and pivot in various directions. You can bend the arm joints up or down diagonally or rotate them in circles. There are no limitations to the arm joints within the natural human range. This flexibility allows for any realistic pose you can imagine and offers a full range of movement.
Shoulders: The shoulders are equipped with an additional, strategically placed joint that allows them to shrug up and down and move forward and backwards, adding even more flexibility. You can lift the shoulders upwards, rotate them forward or backwards, or bring the arms closer to or away from the body, similar to how human shoulders move. This added joint ensures that your doll can assume more expressive poses with ease—perfect for photography enthusiasts.
Elbows: The elbows can bend just like a human’s. Gently hold the upper arm and forearm to bend the elbow into a 90-degree angle or fully extend the arm. The joint allows for both forward bending and backward extension within a natural range of motion. Avoid overextending the elbow beyond what feels natural, and try not to twist the arm too much, as it can make the doll look awkward.
Tip: It’s always best to return your doll’s arms to their natural position (by the doll’s sides) when you’re finished. This helps prevent over-twisting or long-term damage to the joints. As with all other joints, avoid forcing movements that go beyond their natural range to ensure the longevity of your doll’s flexibility.
